Ultralight backpacking does NOT mean sacrificing comfort.

Quite the contrary – the foundation of ultralight hiking is increasing comfort and enjoyment levels of the outdoors by reducing pack weight without sacrificing important things like good food, a warm cozy shelter and essential survival tools. It’s about bringing what you DO NEED and NOT bringing what you don’t need. It’s about surviving and thriving – without carrying a ton of unnecessary weight.

In the old days, it was not uncommon for multi-day survival packs to weigh upwards of 100+ lbs. Thanks to advances in technology and lightweight materials in the survival industry, we can often see thru-hikers packing less than 20 lbs including all food and water. Many ultralight thru-hikers shoot for BASE PACK WEIGHTS (total weight of your gear MINUS food and water) of about 10-15 lbs, which is pretty extreme.

Surviving is as much about sustaining your energy as anything else, and taking 50 or 60lbs off your back saves a whole lot of energy. Not to mention wear and tear on your back and knees.

Now, going to a base pack weight of 10 lbs, may be a little too extreme lightweight and minimalist for many people. I am one of them, I enjoy having some of my creature comforts in the field and I don’t try to shave every single corner possible. That being said, I do try use some of the ultralight philosophy to shave unnecessary weights where I might have them. And due to the nature of advances in technology, it’s quite easy to find lightweight gear these days.

* IMPORTANT: It should be noted that ultralight backpacking is situational as to its effectiveness. It’s GREAT for a thru-hike up the Appalachian trail, for example, where weather is generally mild and resources and resupplying is almost always within easy reach. (Appalachian Trail thru-hikers in fact.. pioneered a lot of ultralight concepts and equipment)

NOT SO GREAT for say.. mountaineering to the peak of Mt. Everest, where you MUST carry tons of essential survival gear/food and extreme weather clothing, Oxygen tanks, and more. In some situations such as these – you may need to carry ALL your extreme weather gear, supplies, food and water for the ENTIRE journey, you can’t resupply or stock up along the way. So there are some scenarios where ‘going ultralight’ is NOT practical at all and is actually a VERY BAD IDEA.

However – lightweight GEAR CHOICES – without sacrificing any FUNCTIONALITY is generally always a good idea to lighten your load.

ALWAYS PACK ACCORDING TO YOUR ENVIRONMENT AND CLIMATE

ALWAYS CARRY THE 10 ESSENTIALS AT THE VERY LEAST

If you are camping in FREEZING CONDITIONS, you need to account for more warm weather clothes and colder temp sleeping bags to handle those temps, you will probably want an axe, saw and good strong knife for processing wood, and multiple redundant methods of creating fire, as a general example.
If you are in RAINFOREST JUNGLE, you need a machete – netting / bug protection and multiple different other things for that specific environment.
So as the boy scouts say, BE PREPARED. 
Always pack according to your local environment.

There is a famous Ultralight Backpacker Saying:
“THE MORE I CARRY, THE MORE I ENJOY CAMPING.
THE LESS I CARRY, THE MORE I ENJOY HIKING
SO WITH THAT SAID, ARE YOU HIKING OR CAMPING?”

The general concept behind lightweight backpacking is to shave unnecessary weight wherever possible without sacrificing function or comfort of your essential items.
It’s about having everything you NEED, and getting rid of the stuff you DON’T need. This is a matter of trial and error and experimentation. Another big concept is having things serve as a multi-purpose tool where possible.. For example you wrap some duct tape around a small pen, this saves space and you have a duct tape dispensing writing utensil. Duct tape is an invaluable tool, but no one needs to carry a giant bulky roll with 50′ of tape. 3′-5′ or so of duct tape should be all you should ever need to take hiking, for emergency repairs on your pack for example, or to help construct an emergency shelter. A simple bandana can serve a hundred different purposes.

Modern ultralight equipment often makes use of space-age lightweight waterproof materials like silnylon and lightweight but very durable metals. Titanium pots weigh practically nothing, and you can make or buy an “aluminum can” stove that weighs 1 oz and boils water perfectly fine, instead of carrying a ‘backpacking stove’ that weighs 36oz.
You can get a ultralight pack that weights 1.5lbs total, vs a pack that weighs 8lbs.
A 2lb hammock vs a 5lb tent.. all these pounds and ounces add up. These are things to consider. 

Survival Kits/Ideas

A survival kit is essential if you plan on going into the wilderness or backcountry. The basic idea is a LOT of lifesaving useful tools packed into a small space, separate from and IN ADDITION to your normal gear and the essential ten. A basic survival kit contains ALL the essentials for survival (overlapping the 10 essentials), including: Hydration, Nutrition, Extra Clothing, Illumination/Signalling, Sun Protection, Navigation, First Aid, Fire Starting, Knife/Repair Tool, Shelter.
You can build your own survival kit for relatively cheap, or just buy a premade one, as there are many good options available. An absolutely essential part of any survival kit.

I also like to carry Fatwood Fire Starting Sticks, for starting fires in difficult or wet conditions.

GEAR CHOICES

The first thing you always want to look at when considering lightening your load is what we refer to as the “Big Three Weights” – SHELTER, PACK, SLEEPING GEAR

These three things combined are the heaviest pieces of gear you will carry. The only thing that should weigh more is food and water. Reducing weight in these three categories should be the first place you start, as you will get the most mileage from reducing weight here. Then you can start to fine tune the other stuff like cooking items, etc. Fortunately with our modern technology there have been amazing advances in ultralight gear and there are many options.

SHELTERS

Your shelter is one of the most important pieces of your survival gear!
A human being can survive for ~3+ DAYS without water… ~3 WEEKS without food.
But in harsh conditions without shelter you may not last more than 3 HOURS exposed to the elements!

Of course, one could always build a shelter from natural materials in a survival situation, or find a cave or hole to crawl in.. but in some situations that may not be an option at all. A quick, cozy shelter and protection from the elements is VITAL to maintaining a good healthy state of being and morale. Your mental state is PRIORITY NUMBER ONE in a survival scenario.

As far as ultralight shelters go, you have a couple options:
Ultralight tents, Hammocks, Tarps and Bivy sacks, or any combination thereof.

Tents

A good tent is a great thing to have.
TENT PROS:
– The biggest advantage of freestanding tents is that they have typically have full coverage from the elements, are often very roomy and can often sleep multiple people, and can be pitched just about anywhere there is level ground.
Tents are an all around solid shelter against the elements.

TENT CONS:
– The major disadvantages of tents is that they are usually heavier and bulkier than other shelter options. Not a concern for the average car camper. A bigger concern for the lightweight backpacker.
– You also have to worry about sleeping on sticks/rocks/unlevel ground and potentially water getting in.
(If you’ve ever woken up in a pool of water… not fun!)
– However if you plan your camp spot carefully you should not have to worry about waking up in water.. just do not camp in “valleys” or low spots.

Most lightweight backpacker purists tend to opt for more lightweight shelters such as tarp tents or hammocks. However – nowadays with advances in materials technology there are many modern lightweight tents weighing <2 pounds, so they have come quite a long way.
(It used to be hard to find a tent under ~5 lbs)

Good Tent manufacturers: Marmot, Mountain Hardware, Big Agnes, North Face, Helleberg MSI

Recommended: Big Agnes Tiger Wall UL Ultralight Tent

NEMO Dragonfly OSMO Ultralight Backpacking Tent

I DO NOT RECOMMEND CHEAP TENTS
Such as the “Ozark Trail” Walmart line.
These tents are good for a day camp at the beach, but NOT for survival.
Cheap tents are usually cheap for a good reason.
They tend to cheap out on materials and waterproofing – and generally fall apart after one or two uses.
Generally, you get what you pay for when it comes to tents.
With a tent you want good QUALITY materials and all the seams to be sealed
(cheap tents usually do NOT have sealed seams and are prone to leaks)

A QUALITY tent is usually going to cost around $150-200 and up.
If you are thinking about buying a $40 tent – BEWARE.
You DO NOT want to wake up soaked inside your tent after a big rainstorm. Get a quality tent.

Hammocks

Hammocks are an excellent option wherever there are trees (especially if you live in a WARM climate).
Hammocks are my shelter of choice for solo camping in a milder climate.
In a hot / jungle climate there is nothing better IMO.
In cold weather – it’s doable – but you need to take extra precautions (below)

Hennessy Hammock – Explorer Deluxe Zip XL

HAMMOCK PROS:
– You will sleep like a baby! It feels amazing on your back (is actually good for your back if you have back problems) and relaxes your muscles.
– It distributes all your weight evenly, so you are not sleeping on pressure points or waking up with weird crinks in your neck. It’s like sleeping in a cocoon. I ALWAYS wake up feeling refreshed and amazing after sleeping in my hammock.
– You never have to worry about finding level ground, or waking up laying in a pool of water because you camped in a ditch or valley and it poured, as can happen with a tent or tarp. You never have to worry about sleeping on rocks and sticks etc.. as you are off the ground. All you need is two trees or solid objects to hang off of.. giant rocks, trucks, anything super solid.

– 99% reduced chance of surprise snakes, spiders, scorpions, and other creepy-crawlies getting in your sleeping bag or in your shelter. They tend to stay on the ground. You are floating safely above the ground.

– Most hammocks utilize a lightweight tarp (usually sil-nylon) over the hammock as a shelter. Most also have a built in very fine bug netting, so it’s technically like a hammock tent. Hammocks are an excellent choice for jungles and moderate forests, and anywhere you can string them up basically. Stay off the ground and stay dry.. sleep like a baby.

– Hammocks are extremely lightweight and pack small. My hennessy hammock packs down to a very small package and weighs about 1.5lbs total.

HAMMOCK CONS:
– The absolute biggest downside to hammocks is that they generally sleep 10-20 degrees colder than being on the ground, as you have free air moving underneath you. The hammocks are basically just a thin layer of synthetic material so they are not really insulated. In warm weather this is not an issue, but in colder weather you do NEED some type of insulation and wind barrier underneath you, or the warmth will just get sucked right out of you.

There are basically two options for colder weather hammock insulation:
1. Use a closed-cell foam pad underneath you.
Hennessy Hammock Radiant Double Bubble Pad
This is good enough to break the wind and provide insulation. Good enough for most situations.

2. Use a Hammock Underquilt
Wise Owl Outfitters Hammock Underquilt
An underquilt is the deluxe option – Essentially a secondary sleeping bag fitted on the outside/underneath of your hammock – that provides a solid layer of cold and wind protection.
With good underquilt – you can sleep in a hammock even in freezing temps no problem.

A regular closed cell foam pad works great in conjunction with a synthetic sleeping bag, this is the cheap option. (it has to be CLOSED cell foam, or else it wont work at blocking the wind thus defeating the purpose). I have used this combination in temperatures down to about 30F with no problems while still staying toasty warm in my hammock.
But if you want the absolute best protection use an underquilt in combination with a foam pad.

Hammock Forums – Great forum for ALL your hammock needs!
How to stay dry in a hammock

Tarps/Tarp Tents

Six Moon Designs Super Ultralight Camping Tarp

TARP PROS:
– An excellent shelter option offering the ultimate in lightweight flexibility.
Tarps can be pitched in hundreds of different ways, are extremely lightweight and extremely versatile.

TARP CONS:
– The biggest downside to a tarp shelters is exposure to bugs/crawly insects (unless you have a bug netting or bivy). And in heavy winds, you will have a lot of free air blowing underneath the canopy.
– Sleeping on the ground you can be exposed to ground water/cold ground and crawlies. Some people sleep with a tarp or pad or bivy underneath, some just sleep with a sleeping bag. Some just sleep directly under the tarp on the ground.

Bivy sacks

– The lightest of all the shelter options. For the uber-minimalist.
– These are essentially just a lightweight semi-waterproof sack that you put your sleeping bag in.
– They offer some minimal protection against wind and rain / dew buildup – They will keep you dry enough during nightly dew and very light rain. But for any serious rain these will not be enough to keep you dry. Some use these in combination with a tarp shelter for more wet weather protection.

Outdoor Research Bivy Sack Helium

PACKS / BAGS

There are hundreds of choices when it comes to packs. First, you need to decide how much gear you are going to be carrying, that is the biggest factor when deciding what size capacity pack to get. Then you need to decide between external frame or internal frame.

External frame packs are big and bulky. The frame is on the outside which the pack, suspension and pockets are attached to. They are good for carrying heavy loads, generally have lots of pockets, and being wider and bulkier, have a much higher center of gravity. External frame also tend to be a lot heavier than internal frames, and for these reasons they are usually avoided completely by ultralight hikers. However, many a hiker loves their external frame packs. They can no doubt carry a lot of gear, have lots of pockets and lots of places to store things. Due to having a frame, you can also strap things to the outside such as Axes, hiking poles, rifle, etc etc. These are the “old school” packs.

Internal frame packs are designed to fit snugly against the back. The frame is an integral component. They are generally more narrow, and tend to have less pockets than external frame packs.. focusing more on one big main compartment and maybe one or two small pockets. Having a narrow profile, fitting snugly against the back and generally being much lighter than external frame packs – these are the packs of choice for ultralight hikers. There are tons of options of internal frame packs, and some manufacturers have got them down to ridiculously low weights. For example, sea to summit has a 26L pack that weighs a mere 1 lb. 11 oz. A comparable pack of heavier materials could weight upwards of 5-8lbs for the pack alone.

Sleeping Bags

When choosing a sleeping bag, the most important factor is the temperature range. All bags are rated according to the lowest temperature they are effective to. So if you plan on sleeping in freezing conditions during the winter, you probably need a 20 or 0 degree bag (or lower, depending how cold it gets). For general 3 season camping, a 40 degree bag is usually fine.

However, be SMART about the bag you choose. Don’t just get a 0 or 20 degree bag just because it’s good to lower temperatures, if you mostly camp in moderate climates in the spring/summer/fall. Some people have two bags. A 40/60 degree bag for warmer seasons, and a colder rated bag for winter.

If there is one thing that is worse than being a little too cold due to choosing the wrong bag… it is waking up COMPLETELY DRENCHED IN SWEAT because you are sleeping in a 0 degree bag in 50 degree weather. HYPOTHERMIA is a very serious threat, and it does not have to be freezing temperatures to get hypothermia. Simply being wet for extended periods of the time, even in 50 degree weather can lead to hypothermia.
Staying warm is important. But equally important is STAYING DRY. This is also the same reason you choose synthetic wicking materials and wool clothes instead of cotton. Sweat is to some extent, unavoidable while hiking. Getting wet is going to happen. The idea is when you do sweat or get wet, for it to dry off as fast as possible. And cotton takes forever to dry. 

If you ever DO get hypothermia on the trail.. the best thing to is GET OUT OF THE WET CLOTHES, get into CLEAN DRY CLOTHES, and get into your warm sleeping bag.

The second thing to consider, is: Down or Synthetic filling. The two both have pros and cons, you must figure out what is most important to you.

DOWN FILL:
Pros: very light, packs very small.
Cons: Almost ZERO insulation value when wet. Down relies on “loft” and air pockets to maintain warmth… and wet down has NO loft. So a wet down sleeping bag is almost completely worthless as insulation.
Also with down, the side your weight is on will have very little insulation (not an issue when sleeping on a sleeping pad, but this can get cold sleeping on a cold ground). If your bag ever gets soaked on the trail it will have almost no insulation value until it dries, this can be dangerous in a hypothermia situation, where a warm sleeping bag is critical.

SYNTHETIC FILL:
Pros: Does NOT lose insulation quality when compressed. The side you are sleeping on retains its insulation qualities. Retains ALL of its insulation value even if soaking wet.
This is probably the best choice for general 3-season camping, just for insurance. Better to be soaking wet and warm, then soaking wet and shivering.
Cons: A bit heavier than down bags. Also bulkier (takes up more pack space).
However, with advances in synthetic fill.. modern synthetic bags can weigh very little and can pack a lot smaller than they used to. Making them comparable in packing size/weight to down.
Although down will always be lighter in general, the gaps are not as big as they used to be.

Synthetic fill bags are the bags of choice especially for any situation where you may get wet.

KNIVES

Knives a largely personal matter. There are a million choices when it comes to knives, but no one will deny that one of THE most important pieces of gear you carry into the wilderness should be a knife.. or three. Ideally you want a knife that is sharp, reliable and strong and will hold up under a lot of stress.. always keep it sharp.

A knife is an invaluable tool in the wilderness for countless tasks and you should NEVER be without one while backpacking – if not two or three. Most people carry a “main” knife, as well one or two “backup” knives, or have different knives for different purposes.

There are also a LOT of great knife companies out there and I don’t have experience with them all… but some of the best and most respected off the top of my head are:
Fallkniven, Gerber, Kershaw, MoraKniv, RAT Cutlery, Cold Steel, Bark River, Mil-Tac, SOG

For most tasks, any sort of knife will do really. I myself prefer to carry a couple knives, a main fixed-blade survival knife.. with a ~4″ blade of high quality steel. I generally also carry a carbon steel blade for general tasks and everyday abuse, as these sharpen nicely. You don’t need a 9″ rambo knife, although a machete can come in handy in some situations.

I own several Mora knives and absolutely love them. They are made in Sweden and made of high quality carbon steel (meaning they can rust easily – you must take care of them!) – but they also sharpen very sharp and easily. They make high end knives as well as some inexpensive knives that I don’t mind abusing. They are inexpensive knives, but they are NOT cheap.. they are high quality blades. Highly recommended.

MoraKniv Garberg Survival Knife

MoraKniv Craftline 511 Carbon Steel Utility Knife

My “main” blade is a Fallkniven S1 Forest Knife. It is an absolutely fantastic full tang blade made of VG-10 laminated stainless steel (SUPER hard and durable) and can be used for so many tasks. I have used it for everything from splitting wood to slicing tomatoes.

Fällkniven S1 Forest Knife

A good knife should be able to handle almost any task you throw at it, from cutting rope to small branches to skinning an animal and slicing your food.  A good bushcraft or survival knife should even be able to split branches and small logs.

If you want to split or process any quantity of wood though… also bring an axe and saw. A decent axe will split wood 10x easier and with 1/2 of effort of any knife.. all day long. It’s perfectly suited for it’s job.
Also a saw is very useful for processing wood.

Different tools for different jobs. A good survival knife should be able to split wood when needed. In a pinch you should be able to use your knife for everything. However for processing a bunch of wood, nothing beats a good axe and a saw.

I recommend a small axe for bushcraft and survivalism. For most hiking purposes it usually isn’t needed.. but if you plan to be in backcountry – I highly recommend you carry an axe and foldable saw as part of your arsenal, as it can save you a TON of energy. I personally carry a variety of tools, 3 knives, my Gransfors Bruks hatchet, and a Sven folding saw. I have a cutting and chopping tool for any occasion.

If you need to make fire or shelter, a good axe and saw can be absolutely invaluable for processing wood with minimal effort.

On that note – Gransfors Bruks makes the best axes I have used in my life. They are hand-forged in Sweden and come with a 20 year guarantee. I have a Wildlife Hatchet and it’s amazing. I had to plug them. It’s not considered “ultralight” by most – but I don’t think I’ll ever go into the backcountry without my axe.. it only weighs 1.3 lbs and it’s worth its weight in gold.

Gransfors Bruks – Wildlife Hatchet

Freescape Camp Saw Folding Hand Saw

Ultralight Alcohol Stoves

When it comes to cooking most ultralight hikers opt to make their own cooker from an aluminum can or buy premade titanium / aluminum stoves.

Clothing

Touched on this earlier with sleeping bags. A few common principles to outdoor clothing.. No cotton period if it can be avoided.

Synthetic polypro wicking type materials or natural wool / hemp are ideal. The reason for no cotton is simple, because when it gets wet.. it stays wet for a very long time. This is whatever in hot/dry climates. But in cooler climates and in winter environments this can create serious problems if you get wet and stay wet for a long time, which can lead to hypothermia. It doesn’t have to be freezing temperatures to get hypothermia either. People have been known to get hypothermia in 60 degree weather. Pick synthetic fabrics or wool for your outdoors gear, as they breathe well and dry VERY rapidly. Even if you don’t get wet from outside, you will sweat, and you want clothes that will wick it. This includes your socks. Nuff said.

You will want some rain gear. Generally this just means some kind of waterproof jacket or shell. Waterproof pants aren’t really needed in most cases but they can help depending on what kind of weather you expect, it’s up to you. But a waterproof outer layer or poncho or something is definitely needed. I like Frogg Troggs. Many thru-hikers swear by them for their extreme lightweight and very good water repellent but also breathability.

Dress according to the weather and climate. If it could potentially be cold, bring plenty of cold clothes. Bring EXTRA DRY CLOTHES, bring EXTRA SOCKS. If there’s anything worse than wet feet, it’s wet feet for long periods of time developing into trench foot and blisters… NO FUN. Your feet will get wet at some point, if you are backpacking, ideally you can dry out your boots/shoes and socks at the end of the day and have fresh dry socks to wear. Try not to walk in wet shoes for long periods of time.

DRESS IN LAYERS. Don’t bring big, bulky clothing items. (Unless you HAVE to.. like climbing Mt Everest..again.. dress for the climate)
In general, you should opt for multiple layers of thinner material, that way you can remove or add layers as needed.

Usually the legs don’t require as much insulation… so even in winter conditions, a thermal base layer and some waterproof/windproof pants/shell is usually all you need unless its super cold. Also while hiking you generate a lot of heat so not much clothes are needed, hikers are usually smelly and don’t care. Many hikers in mild areas only bring 2 or 3 changes of clothes,
but just make sure you are always adequately geared and prepared for the weather you plan on being in.
If winter camping in cold weather – MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF EXTRA CLOTHES / WARM CLOTHES

Water

WATER IS LIFE.
Water is THE single most important thing on the trail. It’s equally important in every day life… but on the trail it’s importance and impact is multiplied
Dehydration is your biggest concern, next to shelter.

In extreme conditions, you can only live a few hours without shelter. You can only live a few days (2-3) without water. And you can live a few weeks without food. After one day without water, you are already severely dehydrated and your body is deteriorating. Water is life. In a desert environment, that 2-3 days can become much shorter.

While hiking, As a general rule you want to consume at least ~1 gallon (4 liters) of water per day in order to stay properly hydrated.

In hot weather, exposed to the sun, excessive sweating.. smoking.. drinking alcohol.. caffiene.. all these things increase the amount of water your body needs to stay properly hydrated. In a desert-type environment with very high temperatures and brutal beating down of the sun, one may need to consume TWO TO THREE TIMES as much water as normal, or more in order to stay hydrated.
Things like Coffee, Soda, Tea, Alcohol, Salty, Processed Foods, Smoking…. all these things will dehydrate you even more..  and the toxins require additional water so that your body can flush it from your system, so you must drink even more water to replace those fluids that are used.

How much water YOU need personally depends on a thousand different variables, including everything mentioned above and more.
But on average – Figure you need to drink at least a gallon of water a day while on the trail – Baseline. (This is like, in a forest )
In a desert environment with high heat and lots of sun – you may need to consume 3-4 gallons a day to stay properly hydrated.

Water should be your beverage of choice, you can occasionally switch it up by mixing in some electrolyte mix or fruity mix as you can get tired of drinking plain water all the time.

However, as important as it is to drink water, you don’t want to drink TOO much. It is possible if drink too much water too fast, you may “flush” all the salts/electrolytes from your body, and if you don’t replace them you can find yourself in a bad situation. So it’s important to keep a balance. There is such a thing as drinking TOO MUCH water.. but it’s rather hard to do…. you’d have to be chugging the shit out of gallons. Most people just naturally know when they are properly hydrated. It’s far more dangerous (and harder to tell) when you are dehydrated, so much easier to err on the side of caution by just drinking water consistently and frequently. 

You can also avoid this by just mixing an electrolyte mix in with your water every so often. The main issue is if you drink TOO MUCH water too fast, and you don’t replace all those lost electrolytes, you will oversaturate your body and can get water poisoning. This is extremely rare, however. That generally can only happen if you do NOTHING but drink a ton of water and don’t eat any food or replace any of the lost salts in your system. This means to snack often in order to replace all those lost carbs, fat, protein and electrolytes. Bring some powdered electrolyte mixes to mix with your water. Not only do you need those electrolytes, but you get tired of drinking pure water all the time, so mix it up a little.

I don’t think I’ve ever heard of anyone ever getting water intoxication from over-consumption of water in the outdoors though, that’s only been at like… water drinking competitions.  I don’t know why I even mention it here… but whatever.

BY THE TIME YOU ARE “THIRSTY”, YOUR BODY IS ALREADY IN THE BEGINNING STAGES OF DEHYDRATION. DRINK WATER OFTEN, BEFORE YOU GET THIRSTY

You will want several ways to carry small amounts of water, as well as a way to filter or purify it from a natural source. Regular plastic gatorade or soda bottles work fine for holding water – you need not buy expensive (and heavy) nalgene bottles. For carrying larger quantities of water, consider a water reservoir/pouch similar to a camelback, they come in all sort of forms. A cheap alternative is those bags the box wines come in.. they hold about 3 liters.

However water is heavy, (1 gallon of water weighs ~8.5 lbs) and on the trail, you can’t carry a 7 day supply of water with you…. so you need some way to acquire it from your environment.

WATER PURIFICATION AND STERILIZATION

You do not EVER want to drink water straight unfiltered/unsterilized from a stream or pond or natural source unless you are absolutely 100% positive it is a pure source.
PRO TIP (GENERALLY THE ONLY PLACE YOU WILL FIND A PURE SOURCE OF WATER YOU CAN SAFELY DRINK STRAIGHT FROM THE GROUND IS GLACIER WATER ON TOP OF MOUNTAINS FAR FROM CIVILIZATION)

The parasites Giardia and Cryptosporidium are an outdoorsman’s worst enemies and no joke at all.
There are other bacteria and parasites (and chemical waste!!) to worry about, but those two are the most prevalent and dangerous ones to be concerned about in North America.

In the US/Canada, it unlikely you would encounter any bacteria in water which could very easily kill you.. the worst you can usually expect is to make you extremely sick.. but the last thing you want in the backcountry is an extreme case of diarrhea and puking for a week straight, in the wilderness this CAN be a life-threatening illness if not treated (due to extreme dehydration), so don’t take your water lightly!!!

THIS CANNOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH. PURIFY YOUR WATER IN THE OUTDOORS!! A CASE OF GIARDIA WILL HAVE YOU SHITTING LIQUID OUT OF YOUR ASS AND MOUTH FOR A WEEK STRAIGHT OR LONGER. THAT IS ENOUGH TO KILL YOU IN A SURVIVAL SITUATION. ALL IT TAKES IS ONE SIP OF INFECTED WATER. AND IT DOESN’T MATTER HOW CLEAN THE WATER LOOKS – THE PARASITES CAN STILL BE IN THERE. THESE PARASITE WILL RUIN YOUR FUCKING TIME IN A HURRY. DO NOT RISK IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you plan on traveling to 3rd world countries or tropical places with poor sanitation like Cambodia (as an example), you have a host of other parasites and viruses to worry about, so you need to be EVEN MORE careful and take extra precautions with sanitizing your water.

The following are the most effective methods for water purification:

– Boiling water – This is the oldest and most reliable way to purify water.  Boiling at a “ROLLING BOIL” for 5 minutes will kill any bacteria, pathogens and viruses in the water… basically everything. The only thing boiling does NOT get rid of is chemical pollutants and sediment. However while boiling alone will kill any viruses and bacteria, it does not remove sediment and other impurities, which will still be floating in there. For that reason most people will at least usually filter the water through a bandana or something similar before boiling to filter out the large pieces of dirt/insects etc…

TOAKS Titanium 750ml Pot with Bail Handle

– Water Filters– Most GOOD water filters with a 0.2 micron carbon filter or better will remove both Giardia and Cryptosporidium, as well as most bacteria and parasites. The only thing water filters will not remove is viruses, (unless they have a “iodine matrix” (viruses you only really have to worry about in third world countries or areas with very poor sanitation) and chemical pollution. In most cases a GOOD water filter is all you need, but if you are concerned about the source, then you can filter first to remove any bacteria/sediment, then boil it for 5 minutes to completely eliminate any possible viruses.

– Water Purification Tablets– is effective at killing almost all parasites, bacteria and viruses when used correctly, but it does leaves an odd taste (which can be covered up by flavored mixes or vitamin C).
Tablets do nothing to filter sediment or particles so most choose to filter the water first (through a bandanda or similar) and then use the purification tablets. Purification tablets are a good choice when boiling or micron filtering is not an option.

– Reverse-Osmosis Filtering can be used, but are not at all practical for hikers as true Reverse Osmosis systems are bulky, heavy and expensive. These are generally more often used in homes, boats, or lifeboats. These are able to desalinate salt water (turn salt water into potable drinking water) and will kill almost all biological contaminants so are extremely effective.

– Distillation – Is another extremely accurate method of water purification. It involves separating the water from the substance by means of vaporization and condensation. Distillation can convert sea water or contaminated water into potable drinking water.

A primitive “solar still” can be made such as found in survival guides; by digging a hole in the ground in full sun, lining it with a bunch of wet plant material and covering the top of the hole with a piece of clear plastic weighted tight on all sides and then a rock or something placed in the middle to weigh it down. Under the rock in the hole goes a cup or your collection device and all the water vapor will condense on the plastic and then run down to collect in your container, after some time you have clean drinking water.
The pictures below demonstrate the principles of solar distillation:

Distillation can be used to purify contaminated water or sea / saline water

DEHYDRATION – HOW CAN YOU TELL?

How can you tell when you are dehydrated? Well, if you are thirsty.. that’s a sign that your body is already in the beginning stages of dehydration. But thirst is not the best indicator.. you CAN be severely dehydrated in some cases and not even be thirsty.

The best way to gauge your dehydration level is to look at the color of your urine when you pee:
– If urine is clear, or light yellow (water/lemonade) – you are properly hydrated.
– If urine is bright yellow (mellow yellow) – you are moderately dehydrated
– If urine is DARK yellow/brown (apple juice/apple cider) and has a strong pungent odor – this means you are severely dehydrated. Drink ~10 ounces of water immediately and follow up by drinking more water every 1/2 hour or hour. Do not just chug 2 gallons of water. Drink a little bit, wait.. then drink some more. 

You want to “stay in the clear”. If you are constantly peeing clear or light yellow urine, you are staying properly hydrated.

Food Choices

Food is a personal matter, but many hikers can agree on some of the basics. While hiking you are going to be hungry and will need to consume more calories per day than you normally would.
Hikers generally need around 3,000-6,000 calories per day, since you are exerting a lot of extra energy.
With backpacking.. food is one thing you don’t want to skimp out on. But you can make smart choices by bringing super dense/nutritious foods, dehydrated fruits/veggies/meat etc. You want things that will nourish you yet pack well (wont get crushed and can last a while without refrigeration). So basically you are looking for the most nutritionally dense foods possible, in terms of nutrition-to-weight ratio.

Your body makes energy mainly from 3 things: Protein, Fat, and Carbs. It’s generally accepted that the ideal trail diet should be roughly ~60% carbs, 20% protein and 20% fat, though what is ideal may vary from person to person.

Omega 3s are very important and most people do not get enough of them in their normal diet as-is, you have to be extra vigilant on the trail. Foods that are especially high in Omega 3s are fish, hemp seeds, flax seeds, and walnuts.
You also need to get your vitamins. Vitamin deficiencies are not uncommon on the trail.. the most common ones would be a lack of Vitamin C, and B12. As vitamin C is most prevalent in fresh fruits and vegetables, it is unstable to air, light and heat and breaks down. Thus dried fruit loses up to 90% of its original vitamin C content, it can be tougher to get on the trail.
An easy way to get Vitamin C in wilderness is steeping/drinking a tea of pine needles – they are loaded with vitamin C – approx 5x more than an orange.

Calcium and Iron deficiencies are also not uncommon.
Cheese and red meat (jerky, sardines, seeds are generally the easiest sources of these)

Canned food is generally a BAD choice for backpacking as cans are extremely bulky and heavy – you have to pack all that extra weight in and out.

– Tuna in the FOIL PACKS works very well in my experience.
– And one exception I would make to the canned foods rule is maybe sardines in a tin, if you like those

– GORP/TRAIL MIX..(Good Old Raisins and Peanuts) – A hiker snack staple.
This can be any mix of nuts, dried fruit, m&ms/chocolate, etc. This is probably the ultimate snack food for backpackers. Easy to munch. Super dense high-energy food, high in calories, protein and good fats. Satisfies the salty / sweet palate… great for replacing those lost body salts.

– Jerky is another protein snack favorite. Energy bars are also popular.

– Avoid an excess of super sugary foods as they will cause sugar highs and a later drop. HOWEVER – there is nothing quite like munching down a quart of ice cream or a snickers bar after a grueling 30 mile day hike. Sweets are good, but in moderation.

– Look for whole grain pasta mixes, jerky, grits, dried fruits, flat bread, peanut butter, oatmeal, etc..

– Avoid anything “instant” or made from bleached white flour, like Top Ramen.. white macaroni, instant oatmeal, 1 minute rice..  crap like that is just empty carbs and will generally not satisfy you for long, it is not really meaningful nutrition. Go with whole grains whenever possible.

– Super dense nutritious superfoods can include: chlorella, seaweed, hemp seeds, walnuts/almonds, olive oil, dark chocolate, flaxseed, “green” veggies like kale/spinach etc.. beans, whole grains, and wild berries like blueberries, raspberries, goji berries, etc..

– Freeze-dried camping food is one of the more popular options due to being nutrient-dense, relatively tasty, lightweight, easy to prepare (just add hot water), easy to pack, and lasts for 20+ years while sealed.

In addition to the food you pack in, you should also consider supplementing your diet with food from the wild.. especially on longer trips. It’s never a bad idea to learn about the edible plants in your area.
Fishing, Hunting/Trapping, and foraging for wild edible plants are all excellent ways to get nutrition from the wild.
It is a good idea to bring a fishing kit if you will be near a lake or stream. A gun if you plan on hunting, or you can make a bow and arrow or other type of hunting weapon.

NOTE: Make sure you properly identify wild plants before you eat them, there are things out there that are quite dangerous to eat, some of which look very similar to edible plants. Same with mushrooms…
Some wild edible plants

As for animals.. if it crawls, flies or swims, it can probably be eaten safely, with very few exceptions. As a rule, Do not eat insects with bright colors, stingers, or lots of legs (spiders, centipedes, etc), unless you are one of those crazy spider-eating freaks. Fresh water fish should always be cooked before being eaten due to parasites and bacteria. Saltwater fish can generally be eaten raw. Mmm

Making a survival bow and arrow

Fishing

USEFUL ULTRALIGHT SITES:

http://www.wilderness-survival.net – Great site for general wilderness survival info!
http://www.survivaltopics.com/
http://whiteblaze.net/ – The Official Appalachian Trail Thru-Hiker Forum